It’s Barcelona, in the late 19th century, and you’re craving a glass of milk. Where do you go? Most likely you’ll head to a granja. In Catalan, the word means “farm,” but it also eventually came to refer to businesses that sold milk, typically with cows on-site.
M. Viader, founded in 1870, is one of Barcelona’s oldest granjas. It’s also one of the city’s most progressive. Realizing the sanitary downsides of having cows in their increasingly urban backyard, the early owners bought a farm at the city’s edge, and created a small factory that made cheeses and other dairy products that could be brought into the city. As such, they were forerunners of milk preservation and packaging, and in 1931, they created Cacaolat, allegedly the world’s first bottled chocolate milk, a product sold across Spain today.
Today, M. Viader retains an Old World feel with ancient floor tiles and vintage furniture and signage; the plaque out front indicates that it’s been recognized by the city for these elements. They serve what many consider Barcelona’s classic crema Catalana, Catalonia’s silky cousin to crème brûlée.
The dish takes the form of a rich, sweet custard, made aromatic by the addition of lemon zest, and topped with a burnt sugar crust. Friendly staff will coach you through the process of breaking the glassy crust with your spoon and taking a spoonful that includes both the custard and those crispy shards. Another Catalonia-specific item available here is mel i mató, cottage cheese served drizzled with honey and topped with walnuts.
